To achieve different tones: Darkest: Stain with a brush, immediately wipe off excess stain with rag. This is messy, so make sure you work on an old tarp or something. Then I immediately stained (with a separate brush). completely saturating the wood), the less stain will be able to be absorbed. Since wood is porous, it will absorb the water first, then the stain second. Here’s a breakdown of the process: I filled up an old Tupperware container about half way with water and physically brushed the water onto the wood. How did you achieve that look with the stain?įor the stain I used the water/stain method used in the pallet headboard build. The stain is Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut). Also, please SHARE this post! We’re pretty much sisters now, we built a freakin bed together! Keep an eye out for more plans soon! If you don’t see your question answered, comment and I’ll do my best to clear things up! I really want to help you make a kick ass platform bed. Please read both the FAQ and comments below for answers to any of the questions you have regarding this build. Space them out 1-1/2″ and attach with brad nails or a finish nail gun. Get out your super loveable Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut) and get to staining! See the FAQ below for how I stained my bed.ĭon’t bother staining the slats or the slat supports.Ĭut your (20) slats to 75″. If doing it manually, pre-drill pilot holes for the nails with a small bit before nailing and they’ll go in like 100% organic grass-fed butter! Attach the trim with 1″ brad nails or use a finish nail gun. We could build anything if I set my mind to making more plans! You and me forever? Yeah!Ĭut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. I can’t believe our frame has legs! We make such a great team you and I. You glued right? Always glue when you screw! C’mon BRO!
Pre-drill and use 2-1/2″ wood screws to secure the center legs. We literally JUST talked about this! Get your head in the game! Notice the pre-drilled hole for the third screw to attach the center 2×4 to the frame (far left of the image). Now is a great time to get those legs cut, don’t you think? Cut (6) 4″ legs from your 4×4 stock.Īttach the two center support legs 16-1/4″ off of the frame to the center-line of the legs. (2) screws on top, flip it over and (1) screw underneath in the center. Measure the halfway point between the two side frames and attach your center 2×4″ support. Glue the inside end of the 2×4 (that will be pressed up against the frame)…Ĭlamp the 2×4 to the frame and get to screwing! Perhaps even a dog.įlip your frame over and set your 2×4 in line with your 1-1/4″ mark. It doesn’t really matter, we just want enough screws to support the weight of the slats and mattress…and you…and a friend.
You may have +/- 7″ between the last hole and the far end. Once your Kreg Jig is set, drill holes 2″ from each end of the 2×4. Mark out 1-1/4″ down so that we can use that as a guide in the next few steps. These supports are set down 1-1/4″ from the top of the frame. Glue and screw your frame together using 2-1/2″ pocket screws.Īfter joining the frame we’re going to attach the 2×4 supports. The proper setting for 2×6’s and 2×4’s is 1-1/2″. Familiarize yourself with the Kreg quick start guide because we’ll be using it all day. Set your Kreg Jig to the proper drill guide material thickness and depth collar thickness. Keep in mind this is the third house we’ve been in with the bed so it’s been moved and maneuvered over and over and over again.Ĭut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″. We’ve had ZERO problems over the past three years with it. Like one of those dude’s who’s been weightlifting since he was twelve. It’s likely the strongest bed you’ll ever encounter. For the legs I picked a 4×4, which I’ll be cutting down into (6) legs. These 2×4 supports hold the (20) slats, which will replace your box spring. Inside is (1) center and (2) side support 2×4’s.
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